Talking with Brewmaster Joe Casey on the Gluten Reduced Beers of Omission Brewing

Some brewers strive to make the next killer IPA or to wow the world with all their culinary creativity.  For Omission Brewing’s Joe Casey, it was about simply giving people a chance to enjoy beer who otherwise couldn’t.

Omission Brewing was founded in 2012 as part of the Craft Brew Alliance (CBA) with a portfolio of gluten-reduced beers. Joe Casey, has been acutely aware of gluten-intolerance since 2005 when his wife was diagnosed with Celiac Disease. “Being a Brewmaster and knowing she wasn’t going to drink beer anymore, having something to fit that niche in her life became an interest to me”, explains Casey. “Prior to that, our company CEO at the time had been diagnosed with Celiac Disease. So I had both a personal and professional interest to see what we could do in terms of coming up with a beer they could both enjoy.”

Their first attempt started in 2007 using traditional gluten-free fermentables like sorghum, honey, and corn sugar.  “The beer was fine for what it what was, but it didn’t taste like the beer we were used to, the beer we wanted it to taste like,” recalls Casey.  The effort was put on hold until 2010 when Casey became aware of an enzyme called Brewers Clarex™ which breaks down gluten chains when added to the fermentation tank.

Brewers Clarex was released commercially in the mid-2000’s to reduce beer haze. “These haze proteins happened to be the gluten proteins found in barley, wheat and rye,” explains Casey. “As a side effect, they found it was digesting these gluten proteins to the point these beers could be labelled gluten reduced.” This gluten reduction process didn’t have any effect on the flavor, aroma, color or head retention.  After test batches and trials using the enzyme to create gluten reduced beer brewed with barley malt, CBA management green-lighted the project, and Omission Brewing launched in March of 2012, becoming the first large scale commercial brewery of its kind in the United States.

The initial reaction to Omission was immense. All sorts of people fighting gluten intolerance thanked them for allowing them to enjoy beer again. Joe Casey could once again share a beer with his wife.

OM_PALE_12ozBottle_040617_previewOmission’s line-up is rather straightforward and accessible, consisting of a Lager, Pale Ale, IPA, and recently released Ultimate Light, a low calorie, low carbohydrate Golden Ale.  Could Omission brew a high gravity beer like an Imperial Stout, or would that push their gluten removal process too hard?  “We haven’t really tried to push the boundaries on that. In theory, it’s possible,” explains Casey.  “We don’t have any desire to make a gluten removed Wheat Beer for example, that just doesn’t sound right. For us, that’s just pushing the boundaries just a little too far. We got the portfolio we have right now and it’s a very solid craft portfolio and we haven’t seen the need to go outside of that yet.”

I found the Omission beers surprisingly familiar. I expected them to be watery or have off-flavors, but detected none of that in the Pale Ale, Lager, and Ultimate Light brews I sampled. The Pale Ale was well balanced, with an orange citrus note, light sweetness, and tannic bitterness. Definitely a Pale Ale I’d reach for again. Lagers are a test for any brewery and Omission’s has a pleasant bready character with a background floral note.  It rates well among the new breed of lagers out there. As for the Ultimate Light, it’s clear, with a discernible cracker-like malt without any off-flavors and fizzy carbonation.

Ultimate Light was just released in response to changing consumer trends that occurred since 2012.  As Casey explains “When the brand first launched, we were really heavily targeted towards people that had medical necessities to avoid gluten and that’s still the foundation of the brand. But over time we’ve found there’s a large number of people who drink Omission just because they’ve decided to reduce gluten in their diet for reasons of choice. And that’s a much bigger market and there’s advantages to tap into that. It made sense to have a beer to fit into that healthy life-style category as well.”

While Omission chases food trends to grow their business, they continue their commitment to people with medical issues with gluten a website  where customers can download the test results from the batch of beer they’re drinking entering a code printed on the bottle. As Casey puts it, “Transparency is very important to us”. As May is Celiac Awareness month, let’s take a moment to realize simple pleasure like beer was out of reach for people with gluten intolerance. For many with that condition, that’s no longer the case thanks to breweries like Omission.

(I purchased Omission Pale Ale and Lager at local grocery stores for review.  Omission Brewing supplied samples of Ultimate Light. Joe Casey photo was taken by Sasquatch Agency. Product shot and Joe Casey photo used by permission of Omission Brewing Co.)

 

 

Scenes from Camino Brewing, San Jose’s Newest Brewery

A warm spring afternoon last Saturday was an ideal time for my wife and I to ride our bikes down to Camino Brewing, the latest brewery to open in San Jose.  Camino Brewing is the fifth brewery to open in the industrial neighborhood just south of downtown San Jose. It sits in an old warehouse. I found it rather refreshing sampling a few beers in a space that was truly industrial, rather than made to look industrial.

As for the beer, it’s a great new addition to the four existing breweries in this growing San Jose beer destination. Perhaps the most impressive thing about Camino is that the brew a few hazy, New England style IPAs I actually liked. It probably helped that the beers were light on the haze. The name “Fruit Cup Imperial IPA” unfortunately evokes those artificial tasting canned fruit cups I ate as a kid, but the brew tasted for better than that with it’s burst of tropical and stone fruit. You just can’t go wrong with any of Camino’s IPAs, which is pretty impressive for a brewery taproom that opened up just a week ago.

Camino serves their beer in 4 ounce sample sizes, half pours, and full pints so you can try as little or as much as you want.  Other highlights include a complex, nutty Brown Ale and a Belgian Quad aged for a few months in wine barrels. The red wine dominated the flavor profile of the Belgian Quad, but that really worked in this arresting combination of sweet malt, light sourness, and strong red wine flavors. Easily my favorite beer of the afternoon. For those looking for something on the lighter side, I recommend their Schwarzbier, a clean brew with plenty of deep roasted flavors.

I’ll definitely be back.

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Coming to Terms with Glitter Beer

I want to hate it. As much as I love beer as a beverage and a culture, it has a long history of insipid gimmicks. Glitter beers seems like just the latest in the long line of them.

Then I read Jeff Alworth’s deep dive on the subject, and realized in many ways, there’s more to it than that.  As Alworth points out, the recent popularity of Hazy IPAs is partially driven by how they look. Now I don’t particularly find floating crud in a glass  aesthetically pleasing, but clearly a lot of other people do. In an age where virtually anyone can broadcast images all over world with their hand held phone, Hazy IPAs have enjoyed a rapidly growing popularity in a way that couldn’t be replicated at any other time in beer’s long history.

Brewers used visual tricks to engage drinkers long before Hazy IPAs.  For example, Belgian brewers are notorious for their history insisting all sorts of contrived glassware is required to properly enjoy their beer. Of course, this really has little to do with how the glassware affects the taste and aroma of the beer, but how it looks in the funky goblet. Brewers have long taken considerable effort in the brewing process to ensure each batch has the same look. They’ve used all sorts of brewing gadgets and processes that date back centuries to clarify beer, or otherwise change the way it looks, which often have little or no effect of the final product’s taste or aroma.

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A cornucopia of Belgian Beer Glasses

 

Glitter beer is yet another example of brewers pushing that envelope. We normally think of brewing innovation in terms of ingredients or technique that creates a unique tasting beverage. And while brewers have been coming up with all sorts of wonderful new flavors and riffs on tried and true beer styles, these new beers still come in the same yellow, orange, amber, and black color. But all the senses, including sight, contribute to the beer drinking experience and brewers seem to be increasingly aware of this, with social media as the catalyst.

I think it’s also worth mentioning craft beer community seems somewhat receptive to glitter beer, largely because craft brewers are the ones brewing these beers. Glitter beers seem to be appealing more to women and female craft brewers have been instrumental in driving the craze. But if a huge corporate brewery like ABInBev released something like Bud Lite Glitter, I think it would almost certainly be denounced as some crass marketing gimmick cynically aimed at women.

I’ve never been much of a fan of Hazy IPAs. I don’t find murky brews attractive and they might taste juicy, but the hop flavors seemed muddled in the haze. Glitter beers? I’ve never had one, initially tho they were a pretty stupid gimmick, but now I’m intrigued by them.  Of the many things you can say about glitter beers, they’re a study of fluid dynamics in a glass which appeals to the physics geek in me.  (Check out this video or that video to see for yourself.) As someone who once claimed, with tongue partially in cheek, that glitter beers were a hideous diabolical plot to destroy Western Civilization, I think we’ll survive OK with glitter beers in our world.

(Glitter beer image from boldmissybrewery/Instagram.)

 

Rambling Reviews 3.19.2018: The Sour Edition

You might say I’ve been in a sour mood. I’ve been savoring tart brews these days, whether soured by the yeast used to make them or by the fruit added. Let me tell you about three that have particularly caught my fancy.

We’ll start with Rubaeus Raspberry from Founders Brewing.  The beer kind of sneaked up on me. At first sip, I’m thinking it’s not very tart, there’s a moderate sweetness and then pow! Lots of fresh raspberry flavors blew through my taste buds, ending with a soft earthy finish. Brewing this with a neutral, light underlying malt was a wise decision by Founders, as it let all those big raspberry flavors shine. One of those rare beers that work both as a thirst quenching lawn mower beer, or something to slowly sip and contemplate.

hermitage flower sourMoving along, there’s Flower Sour from San Jose’s Hermitage Brewing. Hermitage brewer Greg Filippi ages a blonde ale for up to 24 months in French oak barrels and flavors it with a bunch of flowers including rose, hibiscus, lavender and chamomile. Yep, there’s a real depth of floral character to this moderately sour ale, which reveals a little white winey-ness. Sorry, I can’t really tick off of a bunch of flavor characteristics, I was just enjoying this one too much to get into all that.

We’ll end with the 2017 version of Almanac Beer’s Farmer’s Reserve Blueberry which uses four, count ’em four pounds of blueberries in each and every gallon. So as you might expect, it has a lot of blueberry flavors, rounded out with a little sweetness, a slight tartness, a noticeable peppery spiciness and a barely detectable earthiness. It’s a fascinating composition that screams “blueberry” but it’s all those different, barely noticeable accents surrounding the blueberries that really makes this one work so well.

 

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Take aways from the 2017 Hop Growers of America Statistical Report

I must admit, my idea of a good time is looking at hop statistics. The 2017 Hop Growers of America Statistical Report has been released and I’ve been pouring over the numbers recently.  Here are a few of my take aways from after looking over the numbers.

The growth of hop acreage has slowed. In the 2016 report, overall hop acreage growth was up 17.9%, compared to 2017, with a reported growth of a more modest 5.3%. Since 2012, US hop acreage has increased 79.5% but that looks to be slowing down considerably.

Hop yields have increased as well as the price per pound. Good news for hop farmers as yields improved from 1,710 pounds per acre in 2016 to 1,960 last year. The report attributes this to less “baby” or newly planted hops in the field and better weather conditions in 2017.  (It takes generally three years for a hop plant to fully mature and deliver maximum yield.) In addition to getting more hops per acre, hop farmers are getting more money for their hops, at $5.92 per pound in 2017 compared to $5.72 in 2016. I should note that different hop varieties will fetch different prices, so averaging this out is a little problematical, and some farms certainly made out better than others. The average revenue per acre jumped to $11,600  in 2017 from $9,800 the previous year, which the Hop Growers of American estimate that each acre of hops gained a profit of $785 per acre when an estimated $10,810 per acre of production costs are factored in. So hop farmers did well in 2017.

Now what’s good for hop farmers is often bad for brewers and consumers, since if the price of hops go up, breweries have to pay more for them and often pass those costs on to consumers in terms of higher prices. But considering the modest price growth, it’s doubtful this would create a disruptive shock that would affect a breweries ability to brew certain beers, or result in sudden pricing increase to consumers. A thriving network of hop growers allows for innovation and greater willingness to take risks on exotic hops that might product the next killer IPA or be a dud. So in general, I think these numbers are sign of a healthy hop market that should also be good for both breweries and consumers.

Hop growing outside the Pacific Northwest has really slowed. The Pacific Northwest (Washington / Idaho / Oregon) accounted for 95.5% of the total hop acreage in the United States, so contributions from other states are tiny to the overall market. But for people like me, eager to see breweries across the country source local hops, and the potential for different hop growing regions to express their unique terroir, it’s something I pay attention to.

In 2016, hop acreage outside the Pacific Northwest grew at a gaudy 64.9% clip. In 2017, this growth still outpaced the overall hop industry, but was way down from 2016, at 18.9%. A few states outside the Pacific Northwest that had small but booming hop farming activity screeched to a halt in 2017.  This includes my home state of California, which had zero growth in 2017 despite growing at about 50% each of the previous two years, and Colorado which also showed zero growth in 2017 despite nearly doubling hop acreage in 2016.  California and Colorado accounted for 130 and 200 acres respectively, which isn’t very much.  But for people hoping to see new hop growing regions emerging, it was disappointing to see a couple of promising hop growing regions stalling out.

Michigan may become next significant hop growing region. The one bright spot outside the Pacific Northwest is the state of Michigan, which now totals 810 acres of hops under cultivation, a 24.6% increase over last year. This is significant as it appears Michigan’s hop industry is gaining critical mass.  As Bart Watson, Chief Economist explained in an e-mail, a big issue facing farmers outside the Pacific Northwest is “…a lack of processing infrastructure, which is really expensive, and limits the scale they can get to. Michigan looks like it’s largely overcome that threshold.”

I’ll mention the states of New York, Wisconsin, and Minnesota also continued to show strong growth, but at acreages of 400, 297, and 120 respectively, it will take a while before they show the same promise seen in Michigan.

It ought to be interesting to see what developments occur 2018.

(Hop photo from Wikipedia Commons)

 

Women in Beer in Edible Silicon Valley

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Jenny Lewis, CEO of Strike Brewing (photo by Yvonne Cornell) 

 

It seemed like an easy idea at the time, write about two women in leadership positions in the Silicon Valley Brewing community. It turned out a lot harder than that. I certainly wanted to avoid a patronizing “see, women can brew beer, too!” kind of article, because, well you know, they can. And I wanted to avoid muck raising if there was no muck to be raised. Sure, many women face a lot of discrimination, but I wanted to tell the stories of how Strike Brewing’s CEO Jenny Lewis and Freewheel Brewing’s Alicia Blue got to where they were. Both told me they pretty went about their business finding a career in beer without having to deal with a lot of sexism.

The female editors at Edible Silicon Valley were enthusiastic about the story, which is always good, but sometimes I felt they wanted it to go in a different direction than the material dictated. At times, I felt some pressure to produce a story about the freewheeling, sassy barrier busting women of Silicon Valley Beer about subjects that were more subdued and technical. It didn’t help my first draft was a little tentative and lacking some punch. Good collaborative efforts often involve tension, as this one did, and I certainly appreciate the editors comments even though at times I wasn’t too thrilled to hear them.

But I’m pretty happy with the final result, which I credit my editors for helping achieve this, and you can read here:

Women in Beer: Meet the Masters

(Top photo of Alicia Blue from Devin Roberts, Freewheel Brewing)

Scenes from The Rake at Admiral Maltings and the Almanac Barrel House Brewery and Taproom

In less than a year, a dormant World War II  warehouse in the gritty industrial district of western Alameda has been transformed into a hub of activity centered around local brewing. The last time I was at this building was May of last year when it was an active, chaotic construction zone. Admiral Maltings’s Curtis Davenport and I dodged buzzing forklifts as he showed me around the largely empty building, describing all the plans to turn the spaces into a floor malt house and adjoining tap room serving brews that used Admiral’s malt. Last weekend, I finally got to see what could only be conceptualized back then.

There’s something about sitting only three feet away from a bed of malt while sipping away on a beer brewed with barley that had only recently been lying on that very floor. Maybe I’m just a hopeless beer geek, but I found the whole experience magical. Having had over five beers from various breweries using malt from this malt house, there’s something different about it my palate just can’t quite identify. The brews have a depth and complexity despite a simplified malt bill. Only California-grown barley is malted here and only barley from a single farm is used in each batch. I think it’s too early to identify a unique California-malt character but the possibilities are intriguing, and to people like me, exciting.

On the other side of the building, I checked at the recently opened Almanac Barrel House, Brewery and Taproom. Given their heavy emphasis on fruit infused sours, this was more a celebration of yeast and local farming than malt. The place was also a celebration of capitalism as they were selling plenty of beer that afternoon. There’s a much stronger drive to connecting people more directly to the source of their beer than all the feel-good stories and growing awareness of food culture could possibly create due to a simple fact  People pay good money to drink beer in rooms full of shiny brewing equipment. That was on full display at the crowded tap room.  I’ll leave you with a few pictures from that afternoon.

 

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Getting some reading done at The Rake Taproom at Admiral Maltings
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This was my view of the malt house floor.
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Another view of the malt house floor
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In the Almanac Beer tap room, where people like to drink in front of shiny brewing equipment
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Nary a seat was to be had at the Almanac Tap Room

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