That’s the question. Why should I even bother writing about this? I mean, Stone brews great beer, and the California Cafe in Palo Alto puts on great beer dinners featuring a California brewery about once a month. Is there any point of even writing about it, other than to say, “Well, it was great”?
Besides, I’m not a exactly a culinary expert such that I can really deconstruct the subtleties and nuances of the combined brewing vision of Stone’s Greg Koch combined with California Cafe’s Mark Pettyjohn’s magic in the kitchen. But I can sort of fake it. And aren’t blogs all about writing about stuff you have no business writing about for the sole purpose of looking more important than you really are? So in this proud tradition, I will provide my take on the Stone Brewing Brewmaster’s dinner in an attempt at entertainment, or your possible amusement at my expense.
Food: Grilled Portobello Mushroom, chic pea fries, foie gras croutons, goat cheese
Beer: Arrogant Bastard
The first course was a significant food milestone for me since I’ve never had foie gras before starting off the beer dinner with this. It’s hard not be be curious about foie gras, as the food seems so highly polarizing. On one side, you have those who claim eating it is the most heavenly orgasmic surreal experience in the world. On the other side, you have PETA-inspired backlash claiming it embodies everything wrong with civilization. Having now tried it, I have to say I’m a little bewildered this fatty stuff with a light livery taste to it has generated so much commotion.
I mean, it tasted all right, but if I had to face down a bunch of angry animal rights activists just to eat it again, I’d go for something else. Sitting to my left for the evening was Peter Estaniel of BetterBeerBlog of fame, who really enjoyed his and he’s a big foie gras fan, so Chef Pettyjohn must have executed it well.
Peter also probably forgot more about beer and food pairing last week than I’ll never know. After the first course, I turned to him and said “You know, the Arrogant Bastard seemed to over powered the Grilled Mushroom a little,” and he immediately responds with a complex explanation about the roasted malts and the hop varieties contrasting with the grilled mushroom and other elements on the plate. I struggled to follow what he was saying. I think he agreed with me.
My favorite thing about the first course was not the grilled mushroom or the foie gras croutons, but the well seasoned chick pea fries. PETA 1 Foie Gras 0.
|The Second Course in all its porkosity
Food: House cured pork belly, crispy pancetta, smoked bacon butter
Beer: Ruination IPA
The smoked bacon butter and house cured pork belly melded together to form a bunch of creamy pork stuff, contrasting with the crispy pancetta, a bunch of crunchy pork stuff. Ruination IPA, with plenty of strong pineapple and grapefruit hop flavors and no malt backbone to speak of, cut right through all that pork goodness.
I turn to Peter again after the second course to pick his brain on the second course. Instead of a detailed, insightful deconstruction of the interplay between the different pork elements and the hops, he simply says “Mmmmmmm, that was good.” I can work with that.
Food: Duck medallions with cherry compote on top
Beer: Cherry Chocolate Stout
Surpise! After the second course, they bring out the Stone Cherry Chocolate Stout, a limited release that is otherwise sold out and unavailable. It’s got plenty of bitter chocolate flavors and cherry, think of a decadent liquid chocolate covered cherry. And the duck medallions with the cherry compote basically echoed that, even though Chef Pettyjohn conceded they were under salted to my wife and I at the end of the dinner. Chef, if you hadn’t told us that, we wouldn’t have noticed.
Food: Braised beef short ribs, parsnip puree, crispy onion strings
Beer: Imperial Russian Stout, Vintage ’08
What to say here, once again, the food and beer basically echoed each other. And once again, my favorite element on the plate was a lovely, creamy parsnip puree under the braised beef ribs, rather than the savory ribs themselves. Strike another blow for PETA!
|It’s a big party of all things carrot
Food: Carrot cake, tipsy raisins, carrot gel
Beer: Old Guardian barley wine, Vintage ’09
My favorite dish of the night. Way too often, beer dinners end with a desert of Imperial Stout with something like a chocolate tort, or some other Stout and chocolate combination. Sure, the combination works, often quite well, but it’s an obvious pairing and not particularly imaginative to the point of becoming a cliche’. Instead, for the desert course we get a whimsical plate of all things carrot with this odd, carrot egg roll that comes out of left field. Some people, like me, loved it, others were a bit underwhelmed by it, but everyone was talking about it, and by that measure, it was a hit. And the aged Old Guardian with its smooth, sweetness, and slight astringency jumped right into the big party.
There’s a nasty rumor that this might be the last of the Brewmaster’s Dinners for the year with the holidays fast approaching. I sure hope that isn’t true, as the best part of the series is a certain suspense in seeing what Chef Pettyjohn and the California Cafe crew do next.